WHY YOU REMEMBER YOUR HAIR BEING DIFFICULT TO HANDLE (FOR THOSE WHO FEAR TRANSITIONING)

 The beautiful Munachi Abi

Want to transition but fear that your hair would not be as soft as the Naturals around you?  Here are 5 reasons why you remember your hair being dry, hard and difficult to handle.

1. No deep-conditioning: As a child, I can't remember anyone taking the time out to deep condition my hair. At the time, the only hair type that got that preferential treatment was relaxed hair (remember placenta? ^.^). The sad part is that today, most relaxed ladies in Nigeria don't even get their hair treated (steamed) in salons or  at home by themselves. This could be the reason why a lot of us have hair that never seems to grow.

Black hair needs to be moisturised because it easily gets dry; no thanks to weather and a few other factors.

What has changed?

Now Naturals know that deep conditioning keeps the hair moisturised for long periods of time so we don't joke with this part of hair care.

2.Combing: Back in the day, the combs used to comb our hair had little spaced bristles (rat tail comb). Even with tears streaming down your face, the stylists wanted smooth/knotless hair and smooth/knotless hair they got.  Using the wrong type of combs to detangle our hair means that a lot of us have bad memories of our hair being hard and difficult to handle. Stories of black hair breaking combs and crying spells during hair grooming sessions are popular amongst Nigerian (African) women.

What has changed?

These days, we stick to using the wide tooth comb and some naturals on youtube have done a good job of showing us how we can do without using a comb by finger-detangling our hair. You can show your stylist how to do this or you can find a salon that has stylist(s) who know how to take out the knots of your hair without causing damage. Remember, less manipulation = length retention.

3.No emphasis on conditioning: As most Nigerian women know, more emphasis was and is still placed on getting the hair clean without putting much thought into conditioning. So for instance, your hair will be washed 2-3 times and conditioned once with little or diluted conditioner.

What has changed?  Now we understand that the pH of shampoos causes the cuticles to open up. If the hair is not properly conditioned after shampooing, the hair cuticles stay that way when it gets dry, causing it to feel rough and dry. With this knowledge gained, we know that we can get better results by washing our hair once or twice with a shampoo/bar and following up with a THICK rinse-out-conditioner like Vo5 to close our cuticles and end up with soft , smooth hair. Remember that to have manageable afro hair, emphasis should be placed on conditioning and not just cleansing.

4.We got re-united with black soap: Yes, we totally forgot about the benefits of black soap and fell hard for imported shampoos. While I have nothing against shampoos, I have observed that they can leave black hair feeling hard and dry.

What has changed?

Quite a number of us have found the goodness that is black soap again. I used the word 'again' because our great-grand mothers used this soap to wash both hair and skin but for whatever reason most of our mothers and salons did not use this on our hair (for those who knew black soap, it was strictly for the skin). Unlike most shampoos you will find, African black soap leaves afro hair feeling soft during and after washing.

5.Much love for the LOC method: Taking care of natural has progressed from what you used to know. Among others, you will hear terms and techniques like finger detangling, low heat tension method, and my favourite; the LOC method (click on link to read more). These new techniques have made taking care of natural hair easier and cheaper. Yes, cheaper because you can do most of them by yourself; saving you the cost of frequent salon visits.

So now that you know, please go head and take the steps you need to get healthy hair. If you prefer your hair being relaxed still do your research by visiting other natural hair blogs and sites because what most of us preach is healthy hair and most of the techniques that work for natural hair will work for chemically treated hair.

Keeks Pharmacy is Naural Hair Friendly

Hi Ladies!

"Due to popular demand, we at Keek's pharmacy now carry more natural hair friendly products. To buy the products shared with you, and more from Natural Nigerian,  visit us at bright plaza, No. 5 Ebitu Ukiwe street, plot 363 cadastral zone, opposite first bank beside zenith bank, Jabi district, Abuja."

NatM. says: Keek's therapy will have a stand at LRR on Saturday the 30th of October 2014 . 

HARMATTAN HAIR CARE II

Head Wraps for the dry dusty weather

STILL ON WASHING....
 I recently over heard 3 ladies talking about rocking a style for all of harmattan and getting another for the rest of dry season. Hm! I know its hard to keep our hair soft and moisturized during the harsh dry weather  but is it wise to leave a style in for that long? Here are somethings you should consider before keeping that style in....

• Dust in the air:  During this season,  there is a lot of dust in the air and the oils/butters you have applied hold on to it until you wash. So,what we should aim for is clean healthy hair and not dirty oily 'protected' hair. 

Tip: If you can not wash your hair as frequently as you will like, learn to tie head wraps. They are time savers for busy naturals in these dry/dusty times.

• Dry Scalp: Just as your skin gets dry during harmattan so also can your scalp get dry. A sign of dryness can be seen as flakes of dead skin on the scalp or attached to the roots of your hair. Instead of oiling your scalp to hide the flakes wash  it off regularly and oil the scalp after wash day.
  
  Tip: To wash your hair/scalp remember to use mild shampoos, bars, clays or apple cider vinegar in place of harsh shampoos that tend to strip off  natural oils from your scalp.
  Oils like olive oil, coconut oil and jojoba oil are great for oiling the scalp.
   
• Mama Iyabo: The easiest way to prevent chop-chop (breakage) is by moisturizing your hair frequently. Oiling your hair might make it feel soft but that doesn't mean it is moisturized. By the time you loosen and attempt to detangle, you'll rip the results of your neglect...

Tips: Want to avoid daily styling and breakage while keeping hair clean and moisturized? Simple, plait styles that don't take time loosen e.g Chunky braids and or twists (see my huge braids below). You can carry these styles for 2 weeks or less. What I love most about simple styles is that they allow  you...

1. Monitor your edges and
2. Have access to your scalp for proper oiling and washing

Most importantly, chunky braids and twists, if properly done, can be less harmful to your edges (especially when you use extensions) 

 Noble Dreadlocks was used for both styles above...can you tell that it isn't kanekelon hair?

 If you prefer Ghana-braids or medium twists as seen in the pictures above go for kinky extensions like Noble Dreadlocks and Royal Silk (see pics. below). Both brands blend beautifully well with  type 4 hair so you can wash often without worrying about your hair looking old too soon.

   

                                                                                                      Source

DEEP CONDITIONING
This is one step that can not be overlooked. Dry hair (even when in protective styles) will definitely cause breakage during harmattan. Some of you have sent me mails asking for the best deep conditioners in the Nigerian market and my response, I think,  should be very disappointing for the lazy new naturals.
Truth is, my favorite DC treatments come from the kitchen so I hardly ever buy anything in a bottle that is strictly for deepconditioning. See below for some of my favorite harmattan DC treatments:

1. Coconut Milk : Buy 2 or 3 coconuts, take the meat of the husk and blend it with some water. Separate the chaff from the milk and let it seat in a see through container. I usually do this a day before wash day so I keep the milk in the refrigerator. By the next day, you will notice that the milk has separated from the water. Pour out the water and use the milk as a deep conditioning treatment.
I use this mix when my hair is very dry and before doing a roller set. It always gives me good results afterwards.

2.Aloe DC Mix: Aloe vera juice helps reduce breakage. For this recipe, I prefer using gel/juice straight from the plant.

How To:

•  Cut a leaf that grows towards the bottom of the plant.

• Wash leaf and let seat it in a bowl for 10 minutes so the sap can drain from the leaf.

• Using a knife, cut open the leaf and scoop out the gel using a spoon. I sometimes use a knife to scrape out the gel. 

• Mix the gel with your favorite conditioner (so it does not drip all over you) and olive oil.

3.Lazy Day DC 1: On those lazy hair days when I do not feel like whipping anything up for my hair, I apply Natural Nigerian Leave in conditioner to my freshly washed hair, braid, cover hair with a plastic shower cap and top that with a steaming cap. After 30 minutes, I put off the steamer and let my hair air dry. When almost dry, I apply my Shea mix to each section of hair and go on my merry way ^_^. The last step is to help seal in moisture.
Lazy Day DC 2: In a little bowl,  mix Vo5 moisture milk conditioner (or any other conditioner that is handy) with olive oil or coconut oil, and a few drops of peppermint oil (for the effect). Leave on hair for 30mins or more, rinse and then style. Shikena!

If you have a DC mix or two that you would love to share with us, leave a comment in the box below.

SEALING & MOISTURIZING
This is a very important step in getting soft manageable natural hair during harmattan. Immediately after applying your leave in, follow up with your shea butter mix, or carrier oil.

Tips: Again, please note that oils and butters do not moisturize the hair. Instead of 'pouring' oil on your hair strands when they feel dry, take the time out to...
*Spray on  some water,
*Smooth some shea butter or oil on it to seal in the mositure, and 
*Thread or braid.
Tip For Your Edges: Spray on some water and then apply your favorite oil to seal in the moisture. This should protect your baby hairs from falling out due to dryness. For me, I apply the oil and then massage it into my scalp as well.

STYLING

My chunky braids.
We used kinky extensions to braid/twist 13 fat rows

Protective styles like kinky braids/twists are great but if not done properly, can cause more harm than good.
Keeping your ends tucked in is not a bad idea but you can go ahead to be very creative during the harmattan season. There is very little moisture in the air so styles like twist outs and roller sets will last  longer than they do during rainy season. Remember that what comes after February is
heat!! So enjoy the few weeks of dry but not very hot weather.

Tips: Before heading out to the salon (whether  a natural salon or not) take the time out to properly moisturize and detangle your hair. I have noticed that the longer type 4 hair gets, the curlier it gets at the ends. When braiding, this can be a problem for the stylist as the hair will keep coiling and sometimes begin knotting at the ends.
To avoid this, spray on some water a day before going to the salon, and comb/detangle hair properly to separate clumped hair strands and take out shed hair. Smooth on some of your favorite oil and then braid or thread.
If your hair is properly detangled it should be much more easier for the stylist  to separate your hair at the ends without much of a problem- using just his/her fingers.

After washing my hair and leaving it in braids for some days, it clumps together like in the picture above. Sectioning it in this state can be painful so I moisturize, comb, seal, and thread to make it easier for the stylist and I. 

(Hi, Lumo Naturals!!)

 For me, it is easier to section and braid type4 hair when it is stretched out.

 Remember my little sister who did a BC? Yes o, she has gained some length.Yay!! 

(more on building regimens for your young ones in secondary school later). 

During the holidays, washing and combing everyday was breaking her hair so we decided to do chunky twists. Her hair was clean but very dry so we sprayed water on each section, smoothed on some gel and shea butter, then twisted. She wore this style for a week.

        

 Little sister #3 wanted an updo so I gave her one :). Thanks to gel, a brush and satin scarf, she was able to wear this style for a week. *Sorry, I forgot to take day 7 photos.    

That is all for now, feel free to leave any questions you have in the box below.

Note that most (if not all) of the points shared above were picked up while  taking care of type 4 hair in Nigeria (different hair types and different weather conditions might give different results to different people). If you have looser or tighter coils, and any of  these tips does not work for you, please go on to learn more about your hair, be creative this season. Remember to share your secrets with us though because a lot of Naturals (especially in Nigeria) are still very confused on what to do with their hair :)

 Bless!!

Prepare your Hair before visiting our Nigerian Salons (For Sisters with Tight Curls)

Recently, I have had the opportunity of styling the mane of a few Abuja Naturals. When I say styling, I mean protective styles like kinky twists, box braids, cornrows, normal twists e.t.c. One thing I have noticed with most - if not all-of the naturals I have met is that they come to me with badly tangled hair. Their hair is clean and smells great (with all the leave ins and  oils they have applied) but it is shrunken and super tangled at the ends.

This led me to re-do a post on how and why Naturals should prepare their hair before going to our hair salons.

WHY THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT
 

· Most Nigerian stylists don’t know the first thing about natural hair (not to talk of styling badly tangled hair). If you leave your poorly maintained hair to someone who is ignorant about natural hair care then you shouldn't complain when they pull your hair out of its roots with a comb.

· Time: Even if you are lucky to get a stylist who knows what he/she is doing, a lot of time is going to be spent in taking those tangles out. I have spent 2 extra hours on a naturals head; patiently undoing what 30mins of detangling and braiding would have avoided.

· If you refuse to keep your natural hair in good condition, then you might want to delete the words “length-retention” or “long- natural- hair” from your vocabulary.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

• When plaiting tightly curled natural hair that isn't damp/wet, it is easier and faster to work with stretched hair. Note that you do not need to use heat to stretch your hair. Read on for tips on how to go about this.

• If your hair is not properly detangled and stretched out, your equally helpless stylist might pull and tug; causing you to have a sour scalp before your hair is completely done. The torture...

• You might have to deal with a lot of breakage and pay more for extra time spent on your hair. 

HOW TO PREPARE YOUR HAIR 

• Wash, deep condition and properly detangle your hair in sections.

• Take a section of your hair, detangle, apply your favorite light oil (in moderation) and braid.

• Let hair air dry.

• Loosen a section to see the condition of your hair. If your fingers can’t easily go through your hair then;

    *Take a loose section, detangle, smooth your hair using your fingers  and then thread.

•  When hair is dry, properly stretched and free of tangles, proceed to the salon. Tell your stylist to do the following:

*Work with your hair in sections. Why? Natural hair shrinks easily and the ends are the first to coil up. When they coil, you will need patience to take them apart in order to make straight, neat lines without causing much pain. If your stylist is not the patient type, he/she might want to comb out the coils to make sectioning easier. The experience is usually a painful one.

So keep the hair in sections so he/she only has to work with little parts of  hair at a time.

* Plead with your stylist to use a comb sparingly. If your hair is properly detangled your stylist should be able to section and braid without combing a huge section of your hair at once. If your hair is a mess then he/she would have to comb your hair dry - there is no way around it.

STRETCHING YOUR TIGHT CURLS

 THREADING

You can thread your hair immediately after washing (pic to the left)

Or you can thread damp/dry hair.

This technique (African Threading) stretches your hair without the use of heat and keeps the hair strands away from each other-no tangling, no knots.

CHUNKY BRAIDS

   

After wash day, you undo the braids and notice that your hair is still tangled or that you can't take the clumped hair strands apart without hearing snap! snap! No worries, all you need to do is spray on some water (if necessary), smooth the section with very little oil (see pic below) and then braid.

 You should be able to get you air looking this smooth after it gets dry.

Shida Natural's video shows how you can smooth your hair while it is damp.

 

Super-coily ends? Then thread and pin down hair

 

 Threading after braiding to stretch out hair

Note: TRY NOT TO APPLY TOO MUCH OIL TO YOUR HAIR WHILE SEALING.

OILY HAIR IS NOT EASY TO BRAID.